There are several Marian feasts coming up this month and next. Today is the feast of Our Lady of the Snows and the feast of the Dedication of the Basilica of Saint Mary Major.
A feast that commemorates the dedication of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore on the Esquiline Hill in Rome, Italy. The church was originally built by Pope Liberius, and was known as the Basilica Liberii or Liberiana. It was restored by Pope Sixtus III, and dedicated to Our Lady. From that time on it was known as Basilica S. Mariæ or Mariæ Majoris. Since the seventh century it was known also as Maria ad Præsepe.
The appellation ad Nives (of the snow) originated a few hundred years later, as did also the legend which gave this name to the church. The legend says that during the pontificate of Liberius, the Roman patrician John and his wife, who were without heirs, made a vow to donate their possessions to Our Lady. They prayed that she might make known to them how they were to dispose of their property in her honour. During the night of 5 August, snow fell on the summit of the Esquiline Hill. In obedience to a vision which they had the same night, the couple built a basilica in honour of Our Lady on the spot which was covered with snow. (Source: SPQN)
We visited this beautiful Basilica on the 25th of June. That day - partly by design, and partly by accident - turned out to be a very Marian day.
We started with Mass at the Church of Our Lady Queen of the Holy Rosary. Father said he would celebrate the Mass in honour of our Blessed Mother. So his homily was on her.
After breakfast, we then took tram and bus away from the busy centre of Rome to visit the Catacombs of Priscilla.
The house of Priscilla believed to be named after Priscilla, a member of the gens Acilia and who was probably the wife of the Consul Acilius who became a Christian and was killed on the orders of Domitian.
The catacombs were a very memorable experience. I really felt close to the early Christians - I saw how joyful and optimistic they were through their artwork and inscriptions. Death for them was something joyful - a rebirth. And our (very knowledgeable and humorous) guide told us that it is a myth that catacombs were hiding places for Christians. Christians did not hide in them. They buried their dead in them. They lived normal lives, interacting with non-Christians and eventually transforming Rome.
The earth here was soft volcanic rock, so burial was easy. You see the some of the burial niches in the left of the above photo. There were quite a lot of places for infants too - the infant mortality rate was very high back then.
Our guide told us that several popes were buried in these catacombs but their remains now lay in churches around Rome.
Photos were not really allowed - so I took only a few (I couldn't resist snapping one or two!), so I don't have photos of the artwork that decorated several of the tombs of the wealthier people (these were not slots in the wall but larger enclaves. Our guide mentioned that many of the wealthy Christians wished to be buried alongside the poor Christians and refused large graves.
Earlier on I said that some of our Marian encounters were accidental. We originally planned to visit the Catacombs of St Calisto, but changed our minds after Father Val suggested we visit Priscilla instead since the former was quite out of the way. So when Father Marin planned this to be a Marian day, he didn't include in the itinerary that we would see the the oldest known image of Mary which daties to the early 3rd century. This was Providence!
The Madonna and Child are depicted along with the prophet Balaam (probably) pointing to a star, considered an allusion to the prophecy of Balaam: "A star shall come forth out of Jacob, and a sceptre shall rise out of Israel" (Numbers 24:15-17).
We prayed three Hail Marys here, and spent some time in quiet prayer here.
On our way out we passed another group of pilgrims. And our guide informed us that that was the group that got lost two days ago in the maze of tunnels abd still hadn't found their way out. He was joking of course. Funny guy - especially because he usually talks with such seriousness.
After the catacombs, Father and Joel left us for a while: they had been invited to have lunch at the central house of Opus Dei. We were to have lunch, do a bit of exploring ourselves, and rendezvous at St Mary Major at 4pm.
Tasty lunch (I miss Italian panini!). Meals were cheaper here, away from the centre of Rome.
A bus ride away from the suburbs and we were off to explore Rome!
First stop - the Quirinale, the residence of the President of Italy, formerly a papal palace:
Next: Fontana di Trevi, packed with tourists:
Near the fountain stands the Church of Saints Vincent and Anastasius, which as I discovered after returning to Singapore contains the hearts of Popes Sixtus V, Urban VII, Gregory XIV, Innocent IX, Clement VIII, Leo XI, Paul V, Gregory XV, Urban VIII, Innocent X, Alexander VII, Clement IX, Clement X, Bl. Innocent XI, Alexander VIII, Innocent XII, Clement XI, Innocent XIII, Benedict XIII, Clement XII, Benedict XIV, Clement XIII, Clement XIV, Pius VII, Leo XII, Pius VIII, Gregory XVI, Bl. Pius IX (all the Popes from Sixtus V, who died in 1590, to Pius IX, with the exception of Pius VI).
Originally Roman Catholic, since 2002 the church has been used by the Bulgarian Orthodox Church.
We then head towards the Spanish Steps.
On our way we passed this pillar with a statue of Mother Mary placed on top. It reminded me (correctly, I later discovered) of Pope Benedict's beautiful homily on the 2009 Feast of the Immaculate Conception. You must read it! Go here.
In the heart of Christian cities, Mary constitutes a sweet and reassuring presence. In her self-effacing style, she gives everyone peace and hope during the happy and sad moments of life. In churches, chapels or the walls of buildings, a painting, mosaic or a statue stand as a remainder of the Mother’s presence, constantly watching over her children. Here too in Piazza di Spagna, Mary stands high, on guard over Rome.
- Pope Benedict XVI
Barcaccia Fountain, the work of Pietro Bernini and his son, Gian Lorenzo Bernini (the latter went on to create many masterpieces, including the baldacchino at St Peter's, truly treasures of Rome)
The Spanish Steps - the longest and widest staircase in Europe
The church of the Santissima Trinità dei Monti (often called merely the Trinità dei Monti) is a late Renaissance church in Rome. It is best known for its commanding position above the Spanish Steps which lead down to the Piazza di Spagna. The church and its surrounding area (including the Villa Medici) are the property of the French State.
On to the Piazza del Popolo
And after a metro ride, we finally make it to Santa Maria Maggiore:
Approaching from the rear:
The facade:
Tradition has it that in August 352 AD, the Blessed Virgin appeared to Pope Liberius instructing him to build a church in her honor on the Esquiline hill, on the site previously occupied by the Temple of the goddess Cybele. The floorplan was outlined the next day by a miraculous August snowfall. This basilica, however, was not completed until the reign of Pope Sixtus III (432-440) most probably hastened by the proclamation in 431 by the Ecumenical Council of Ephesus that it is truly right and fitting to honor Mary under the title of "Theotokos" or "Mother of God." (Source)
Santa Maria Maggiore is the only Roman basilica that retained the core of its original structure, left intact despite several additional construction projects and damage from the earthquake of 1348.
The columns flanking the nave are of Athenian marble. They were in all probability part of the first basilica, and are possibly reused from an older Roman building. Above them are mosaics of Old Testament history, which probably makes them the oldest Christian mosaics in a church in Rome.
A Monsignor praying his breviary
The gold used here is said to be the first gold brought from the New World, given by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain.
Mosaics from the 5th Century, in the triumphal arch, and from the 13th Century in the apse.
Bernini so loved this church that he requested to be buried here - and he was.
The Basilica is also the centre of the devotion to Santa Maria Salus Populi Romani, the health of the Roman People.
Marian pillar at the entrance to the Basilica
After Maria Maggiore, we visited the beautiful baroque Basilica of Saint Praxedes (Santa Prassede)
A fragment of the pillar of the scourging
The Basilca had so many stunning mosaics:
Outside once again.
Totus Tuus - Pope John Paul's Marian motto. "All yours"
Santa Maria della Vittoria:
The church was begun in 1605 as a chapel dedicated to Saint Paul for the Discalced Carmelites. After the Catholic victory at the battle of White Mountain in 1620, which reversed the Reformation in Bohemia, the church was rededicated to the Virgin Mary. (Turkish standards captured at the 1683 siege of Vienna hang in the church, as part of this theme of victory.)
Bernini's very beautiful "Ecstasy of Saint Teresa"
We dropped by the Church of St. Sussanah, the church of the Americans in Rome. We then visited Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs.
This originally was the building that housed the vast Baths of Dicoletian, the emperor notorious for his persecution of Christians.
It's a vast building, and the photo does not really do justice to the proportions. The church's vault was designed by Michaelangelo.
After this, we had dinner near the Termini train station and head back to our hotel.
SUB tuum praesidium confugimus, Sancta Dei Genetrix. Nostras deprecationes ne despicias in necessitatibus, sed a periculis cunctis libera nos semper, Virgo gloriosa et benedicta. Amen.
WE fly to thy patronage, O holy Mother of God; despise not our petitions in our necessities, but deliver us always from all dangers, O glorious and blessed Virgin. Amen.
An ancient prayer to the Blessed Virgin Mary, the oldest known version of which is found on an Egyptian papyrus from the 3rd century.