Meeting the Pope

On December 29th Monsieur d'Elbene, who was then ambassador, a studious gentleman and long friend of Monsieur de Montaigne, recommended that he kiss the Pope's feet. Monsieur d'Estissac and he got into the said ambassador's coach. When the ambassador was admitted to audience, he had them called by the Pope's chamberlain. They found the Pope and with him the ambassador alone, which is the fashion; he has beside him a little bell that he rings when he wants someone to come to him. The ambassador was seated at his left hand, uncovered; for the Pope never takes off his cap for anyone whatever, nor is any ambassador with him with his head covered. Monsieur d'Estissac entered first, and after him Monsieur de Montaigne, and then Messieurs de Mattercoulon and du Hautoy. After one or two steps into the chamber, in the corner of which the said Pope is seated, those who enter, whoever they may be, put one knee on the ground and wait for the Pope to give them his benediction, which he does; after that they get up again and proceed until about the middle of the room. It is true that most people do not straight to him, cutting across the room, but sidle along the wall in order, after turning, to make straight for him. At this halfway point they once more get down on one knee and receive the second benediction. This done, they go toward him as far as the velvet carpet spread out at his feet seven or eight feet farther forward. At the edge of this carpet they go down on both knees. There the ambassador, who was presenting them, knelt on one knee and pulled back the Pope's robe from his right foot, on which there is a red slipper with a white cross on it. Those who are on their knees drag themselves in this position up to his foot and lean down to the ground to kiss it. Monsieur de Montaigne said he had raised the end of his foot a bit. They made way for one another to kiss, then withdrew to one side, still in this posture. This done, the ambassador covered the foot Pope's foot again, and, rising from his seat, told him what seemed proper for the recommendation of Monsieur d'Estissac and Monsieur de Montaigne. The Pope, with a courteous countenance, admonished Monsieur d'Estissac to pursue study and virtue, and Monsieur de Montaigne to continue in the devotion he had always borne to the Church and the service of the Most Christian King, and said that he would gladly be of serve to them whenever they could: those are Italian phrases of service. They for their part said not a word to him; but having there received another benediction before the Pope rose, which is the sign of dismissal, went back the same way. This is done according to each person's notion; however, the commonest way is to move away backward, or at least to withdraw to the side, in such a way that he looks the Pope in the face. At the halfway point, as in coming, they again went down on one knee and had another benediction; and at the door, again on one knee, the final benediction.

An account of Michel de Montaigne's meeting with Pope Gregory XIII in Rome, from Montaigne's Travel Journal.

The account should be read keeping in mind that at that time, the Pope was also a temporal ruler, and that such protocol was not unusual for rulers of the day. Still, I'm glad these customs are no longer in place.